As Time Goes By: Antique Pocket and Wrist Watches
Daniele Gair -
Of all the mechanical devices invented over the centuries, from cameras to cars, nothing beats the watch for its captivating combination of luxury and scientific significance. Originally made only for the very rich or very royal, the personal, portable timepiece has had its influence on commerce, exploration and transportation for nearly six centuries. A watch can indicate not only individual style, but also personal influence, affluence, not to mention one’s commitment to punctuality. Watches have been passed down as family heirlooms, given as a mark of accomplishment, and even carried into space. From the highly decorated to the technological marvels, the classic timepiece will never go out of style.
The first pocket watches were made at the end of the 15th century in Europe. Time was of the essence during this burgeoning period in commerce, after the Black Death had eased its grip on the continent, and businessmen found that a portable clock a handy tool to have. In order to achieve this, clockmakers traded the weight-driven mechanism used in clocks at the time for lighter spring-driven movements. Springs also allowed watches to become smaller and more compact.
Over the next three centuries, Swiss, German, French and English makers all created watches that were both technologically advanced and artistically sumptuous. The mid- to-late 19th Century saw the founding of some of the most well-known names in European watch making. French makers like Breguet and Leroy were first connected with exceptionally intricate movements, while Swiss metal artisans, already famed for their enameled snuffboxes and musical bird boxes, demonstrated their skill at creating beautifully enameled cased and dial faces. Also, watchmakers developed chronographs, instruments that had both time-telling and stopwatch capabilities.
The Swiss were also known for exceptional precision. The renowned Ulysses Nardin, founded in 1846, created a chronometer that measured to the 1/10 of a second. This watch was used at the Berlin Olympics and earned a number of prestigious awards for the company. Nardin also won first prize at the Chicago Exhibition of 1893 for its pocket chronometer-chronograph, made with a case decorated with a relief-engraved allegory of the Arts and Sciences. Today, this watch is valued between $60,000 and $80,000.
Photo left: Rare Patek Philippe 18K gold antique pocket watch, retailed by Tiffany & Co., Swiss, circa 1901. Photo right: The movement of Patek Philippe pocket watch. (Photos: www.bogoff.com)
Other 19th-Century companies whose timepieces have remained at the top of collectors’ lists include the inimitable Cartier, Movado, who produced an unusual pillow-shaped pocket watch called the Ermeto, and the matchless Patek Philippe. On September 17th, a collection of rare Patek Philippe watches set a new record in sales. One, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 rattrapante (double) chronograph wristwatch, one of only two known to exist, went under the hammer for the first time and commanded a final price of approximately $1.12 million at an auction held by prestigious timepiece auction house Antiquorum. What’s more, this competitive auction also saw several other Patek Philippe watches achieve equally impressive six-figure bids.
American skill at watch making has enjoyed its own level of triumph. Companies such as Hamilton Watch Company, Elgin National Watch Company and Bulova began to make their mark during this time with pocket watches of restrained elegance, while companies like Tiffany & Co. took a more luxurious route, with bejeweled and engraved cases.
Photo left: Hamilton pocket watch case. Photo center: Hamilton pocket watch interior with damaskeening. Photo right: Extremely rare 14K multi-color Hamilton Watch Co. 21-jewel antique pocket watch, American, circa 1904. (Photos: www.bogoff.com)
Companies also competed with one another not only on the mechanical intricacy of their movements but also on the decoration of said movements, with a process known as “damaskeening.” This complicated engraving indicates a watch of exceptional quality, crafted by a maker of both technical and artistic talents.
American watchmakers were responsible for the development of a standard system of checking timepieces after a large train wreck in 1891. Watch manufacturers thereafter had to meet certain standards before they could be used for railroad use. These standards include being able to keep time in five different positions, adjustments for hot and cold temperature, and stability. These railroad watches soon became the “high-tech” watches of their time, are extremely well made, and are among the most popular collectible American watches, particularly those made by Hamilton.
Hamilton pocket watch, family heirloom, circa 1942, the last year Hamilton made pocket watches. (Photo, courtesy of William Selsor.)
Wristwatches gained in popularity from 1910s to 1930. Originally thought to be too feminine by men, war and cars made wristwatches more practical. Rolex started to produce its famed “Oyster” model in the 1920s, and Longines, a firm that won 10 world’s fair medals and 28 gold medals in 1877, became known for the high quality of its wristwatches in the 20th Century. Called the “world’s most honored watch,” Longines earned a reputation as the watch of adventurers, as pioneers like Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Earhart, Admiral Bird, Howard Hughes and the Duke of Abbruzi all placed their trust in the company’s instruments. In fact, my own grandfather brought a 14K, 21-jewel watch back from France after WWII, a watch I am proud to have in my possession today. The company also developed the first quartz movement. Look for earliest wristwatches from 1910s and 1920s as well as stainless steel automatics from ‘50s and ‘60s. Movado and Elgin made highly collectible Art Deco wristwatches, and companies like Breitling of Switzerland produced chronographs that became almost as crucial an instrument for aviators as the altimeter.
When collecting, the watch’s condition is the single most important factor in determining its value. In particular, pay attention to the watch’s physical condition, size, number of jewels, and working condition.
If you would like to show off a watch’s timekeeping capabilities, even after several decades, make sure it works. A watch can be very expensive to fix if it has damaged or missing parts, with the exception of the crystal. If there are any questions about the condition of the movement, ask your dealer to have the watch examined by a reputable watchmaker, or contact one yourself. An honest dealer will certainly understand.
The way in which a watch is wound is also extremely important. Some of the very rarest and earliest pocket models to be found today are key-wound watches. These watches are fabulous collector’s finds; at a recent Bonham’s auction in Hong Kong, a rare 18th Century key winding pocket watch was valued at HK$128,000 – 148,000, or US$17,000 – $19,000. However, these treasures may only be suitable for display, as they can be especially fragile and as the use of a key was often responsible for a damaged crystal or case.
You also want to pay attention to the size of the watch you’d like to purchase and to the number of jewels included in the movement. Watch size is measured in one of two systems, the English and American size scale or the Swiss “ligne” scale. More specifically, these systems measure the dimensions of the movement across the dial of the main plate. The English or American scale measures in increments of 1/30 of an English inch, and the Swiss “ligne” measures 1 ½ of a French inch. Jewels are small bearings made of man-made rubies or sapphires that maintain the continued precision of the watch’s movement. The more jewels a watch has, the more work that went into it, insuring years and years of precision. A watch with a high number of jewels is more precise. The most highly sought are the 21- to 23-jewel timepieces in the 16-18 sizes.
Valuable watches can be found anywhere from a neighborhood garage sale or estate sale to the world’s fines auction houses. Houses like Christies, Sotheby’s and Bonham’s have all auctioned magnificent timepieces, both individually and in small collections. Antiquorum auction house specializes in the finest watches in the world and can be an outstanding resource for learning about companies, styles and desirability of virtually any watch.
For the more adventurous collector, look for unusual watches. Character watches, which feature famous cartoons, celebrities and sports figures on the dial, are a perennial favorite and can be quite valuable. Also, look for limited editions and pieces by companies that have gone out of business. And don’t forget, a valuable item can often be found in one’s own backyard, or in this case, attic or bureau drawer. Beautiful watches are among the most popular heirloom, and may be still be in fine form, thanks to years of care and protection.
As with any collectible, do your research, preferably with the help of an expert, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Watch collecting is one of the more gratifying undertakings, as no two watches are quite the same. These very personal items bear the marking of their makers and former owners and have proven to be a fascinating and rewarding investment.
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Resources:
“100 Years of Vintage Watches: Identification and Price Guide,” by Dean Judy
“Watches,” by Dean Judy
Websites:
www.bogoff.com
www.antiquorum.com
